


Waiting for waves
Patience is a virtue
Oftentimes we wait weeks to even paddle out
Then we find ourselves waiting between sets
In a crowded lineup with other people waiting
Or maybe you’re alone in the lineup at some special place
Waiting for a wave that will dawn a feeling
It’s all unique and individual I suppose
However, there are times when it feels as if the Ocean chose you
You’re the only one left in the spot where the energy of a wave feels the bottom
Gratitude and fear as you appreciatively attempt to rise to the occasion
A Sea Lion Pops up as the wave rolls into a bay
Or a Frigate bird hovers over you as you see a set out the back
And you know there’s a wave coming to carry you
It’s playfulness in the face of surf that feels larger than yourself
That’s what moves the soul
Something greater than ourselves